Great to have you here! You like Hungarian wines? Me to! The coming weeks – heck months – you will find a lot about them on Wine Virtuosity, next to my Portuguese adventures of course. Lots of stuff on Facebook as well; here and here. I also sometimes tweet, like everyone else. Hey, why not follow?

Thanks for stopping by. You like Portuguese wine? Me to! I’m on Facebook as well you know, as me, myself and I. More stuff to find there. I also sometimes tweet, like everyone else.Why not follow?

No, I am not going to predict that Douro wines will outrival the port wines in the future. Not even [...]]]>

Thanks for stopping by. You like Portuguese wine? Me to! I’m on Facebook as well you know, as me, myself and I. More stuff to find there. I also sometimes tweet, like everyone else.Why not follow?

No, I am not going to predict that Douro wines will outrival the port wines in the future. Not even indicate there’s a possibility it will happen. Port is safe. Port is great! But it is time more consumers realize where the DOC Douro is heading and what potential greatness it possesses. From impressive entry level wines to the premium stuff. So start exploring one of the world’s greatest wine regions, it now comes in an unfortified version as well!

It all started with unfortified wines but with the success of adding alcohol in order to stabilize the wines, the unfortified wines had little chance against the port. Not perhaps in the consumer’s eyes, but amongst the producers. After all, who would waste highly rated vineyards for table wines. When Fernando Nicolau de Almeida created Barca Velha in the beginning of the 1950′s he went to Bordeaux for guidance and found quite different techniques being used, compared to those in Douro. But still, even if his wine quickly gained lots of respect, it didn’t inspire many to follow in his footsteps.

Even if the unfortified wines got their own DOC in 1979, the real breakthrough started in the mid-80′s when Portugal joined the EC and financial support was given for new facilities. At the same time a new generation joined the Douro, people with knowledge in winemaking outside of the Douro Valley. It is now things are starting to happen. Niepoort and Champalimaud are amongst the first to show, next to Barca Velha and its second wine, what potential the Douro Vally boasts.

Experimenting. Trying American oak, French oak, colder fermantation and shorter fermentation. Using grapes from premium sites in for example the Pinhão Valley, something that would be totally unlikely to happen just a few decades earlier. With the new facilities more suited for table wines and not the extract filled ports, the boom started for real during the 1990′s. For those of us lucky enough to have been part of the development in DOC Douro, has seen dramatic changes in winemaking style. From quite generous, port like wines with lots of oak, to mineral driven, almost cool climate wines with integrated and more discrete oak treatment.

During my visit in Douro in March, I tasted mostly the 2009′s but also barrel samples of 2010. Two warm vintages which today are proof of how well the Douro winemakers handle the heat. Personally, I haven’t tasted, on a general basis, so many impressive wines as in the 2007 and 2009 vintages. For me, these two vintages represent the turn, when Douro’s found its way. There’s no doubt anymore; Douro are here to stay and are now taking the next steps towards even higher quality and potentially world class table wines. Some are already there, others within a few years.

Few wine consumers in the world are probably prepared to pay 30-40 euros for a DOC Douro. A vintage port yes, but the table wines still has a far way to go before being an established brand. It helps a lot when world leading wine magazines such as The Wine Spectator acknowledges the wines and puts them in the annual Top 100 list, but lots of work needs to be done promoting the wines on all levels. Sommeliers offering them, promoting them on restaurants, importers daring to buy them. But most of all it is all about you! Start to believe that Douro can be home to amazing table wines. If you need some guidance where to start, what to pick up, here’s a shortlist of some wines that, for me, represents the diversity and greatness of Douro.

Jorge Serôdio Borges

White wines

Guru 2009 – Wine and Soul. The white wine from Sandra Tavares da Silva and Jorge Serôdio Borges is a stunner. Cool climate fruit and that mineral oozing Douro character are just irresistible. Old indigenous vines, new techniques. Buy, try and decant in time.

Redoma Branco and Redoma Reserva Branco 2010 – Niepoort. Again, few knows or realizes that Douro actually are high-altitude vineyards. Not all of Douro, but in the case of Dirk Niepoort’s white wines we are at 400 to 700 meters above the sea level. Old vines, amazing acidity and age worthy. These are amongst the top whites in the whole of Portugal.

Red wines

Quinta do Javali Old Vines 2009. Perhaps one of the most surprising wines I tasted last year. A new estate for me and the wines of António Mendes, especially this one, oozes of mineral. Just a fab glass simply. But in need of time so decant way ahead, save some for the next day and keep a few bottles for the future!

Quinta da Manoella Vinhas Velhas 2009. With this first bottling, Sandra and Jorge at Wine and Soul shows the Burgundy side of Douro. Just a a few thousand bottles made, but this centennial old site in Pinhão has shown what elegance the Douro wines can possess. One of the best ever I’ve tasted from Douro, but then keep in mind I always go for elegance before concentration.

Quinta Vale D. Maria 2009. A real contrast to the previous one mentioned but with a purity in the fruit and a mineral feel that is just stunning! When tasting this young, always keep in mind it will age very well and are by no means near maturity level.

Quinta do Crasto Reserva Old Vines 2009. Elegant and flattering. I love the Old Vines of Crasto. Freshly crushed berries on wet rocks. Heaven. In the spending mood? Upgrade to Vinha Maria Theresa!

Poeira 2009. I remember the first time I tasted Poeira. A different Douro with elegance as its trademark. The 2009 is bolder but never becoming too much. A cellar wine but perhaps one of top five wines in Douro in 2009. And it wont ruin you!

Give DOC Douro a real chance. Taste them, drink with your meal. And keep in mind these are young wines, needing two or three more years to settle. Please share your thoughts and impressions with me!

Want to find any of the wines mentioned? Use Vinopedia or Wine-searcher for your region.

Great to have you here! You like Hungarian wines? Me to! The coming weeks – heck months – you will find a lot about them on Wine Virtuosity, next to my Portuguese adventures of course. More stuff on Facebook as well; here and here. I also sometimes tweet, like everyone else. Why not [...]]]>

Great to have you here! You like Hungarian wines? Me to! The coming weeks – heck months – you will find a lot about them on Wine Virtuosity, next to my Portuguese adventures of course. More stuff on Facebook as well; here and here. I also sometimes tweet, like everyone else. Why not follow?

“I’m going to name the wine Eszter,” he says.

Zoltán Demeter; few has worked so hard to show the real class of Tokaj wine. His single parcel wines are all great expressions of their respective conditions and bottled proof of the huge potential the region possesses. But all the work (he’s basically a one man show) has given him, as he told me: “little time to build a family.” However, now there’s a new family member and Zoltán revealed he would name one of the sweet wines after her.

His wines are extremely limited in production and hard to find, but that shouldn’t stop you from trying. If Zoltán’s wines will keep the high level – and even take the next step, it is just a matter of time before we start talking about dry Tokaj wines as potential world class! Actually I wonder if not his 2008 Lapis are closing in on that epithet already.

Then there is Mr. Tokaj himself of course; István Szepsy. A true gentleman – and just like Zoltán – producing some breathtakingly good Tokaj wines. Quite different in style yes, but showing the diversity of the region.

Zoltán Demeter and István Szepsy are surely amongst the greatest producers in Tokaj, but there are lots of activity going on in the region and many new names are just awaiting – and deserving – international recognition. István Balassa and László Szilágyi for example. You will meet them all here, on Wine Virtuosity.

Although being prepared for my trip to Tokaj, I must say the quality on a general basis were almost overwhelmingly good. So, if you want to read lots about Tokaj and its coming and established stars, then follow my postings both here and on Facebook!

Also to be published, posts from my inspiring Eger visit and some really impressive stuff from Mátra and outstanding Merlot from Villány.

N.B. Yes, although we had a lot of sweet Tokaj as well, the focus were on the dry wines. After all, we all already know the sweet elixir rocks!

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There’s something about Chardonnay. Think you’ve heard me saying that before. No other grape has shown such adaptability around the world [...]]]>

Great to have you here! You like Hungarian wines? Me to! I’m on Facebook as well, as me, myself and I. More stuff to find there. I also sometimes tweet, like everyone else. Why not follow?

There’s something about Chardonnay. Think you’ve heard me saying that before. No other grape has shown such adaptability around the world with amazing end results. In times when Riesling seems to receive all the accolade, it is easy to forget the grape that for so many of us started the wine passion. Burgundy may still be the region functioning as the prototype, but I don’t think anyone will complain if I suggest that both California and New Zealand could just as well be Chardonnay reference points today.

We all probably have a favorite style of Chardonnay, be it sparkling or still. At least I know I have. Corton-Charlemagne. There’s a minerality to die for; slightly smoky and then that matchstick scent. Cool, restrained and with subtle citrus notes and stone fruits. Mustn’t forget the skillful use of oak. For my palate, that’s the ultimate Chardonnay.

Corton-Charlemagne doesn’t make the bargain list. Although not an inexpensive Chardonnay I still felt pretty excited when I had a Hungarian version sending me straight to Burgundy, showing a slight Corton-Charlemagne resemblance! The matchsticks, the mineral feel and lots of restrained stone fruits and citrus peel. Sure, some more weight and alcohol than a Burgundy but there were still several similarities. The oak treatment was just as impressive. Impeccable work.

Perhaps on the second day some white peaches emerged on the nose and palate but still; dry and with lovely mouth-watering acidity. Serve it to me blind and I would nine out of ten times end up in France. Wines like this are the reason for why I am going to Hungary this week! I simply need to discover classic regions such as Eger and Tokaj and find out what’s happening on the exciting Hungarian wine scene.

The wine? 2009 Gróf Buttler Chardonnay from Eger. Remember the name. You will hear a lot about them the coming years.

Want to try their Chardonnay or the red wines? Contact Gróf Buttler for retailers!

Great to have you here! You like Portuguese wine? Me to! I’m on Facebook as well, as me, myself and I. More stuff to find there. I also sometimes tweet, like everyone else. Why not follow?

Can I be a bit of an ego for a while? Yes, [...]]]>

Great to have you here! You like Portuguese wine? Me to! I’m on Facebook as well, as me, myself and I. More stuff to find there. I also sometimes tweet, like everyone else. Why not follow?

Can I be a bit of an ego for a while? Yes, this is a long one, some of you will probably panic, give up and desperately look for scores at the bottom of the post. But if you call yourself a wine lover and care for the producers daring to make a difference, then seven or eight minutes aren’t much. Is it?

No one remembers a chicken, yet there are so few who dares and follow their own belief. I’m probably one of the chickens. You know what you have but not what you’re going to get. On the other side, that makes it easier to identify and admire the people who shows courage and sees potential instead of obstacles. Like Pedro Araújo.

Pedro is one of the frontmen of the viticultural revolution in Vinho Verde. The frontman, some would probably say. Evil tongues perhaps, what revolution. Still, the fact remains that a lot is happening in the region, Portugal’s largest, and the quality thinking is slowly gaining more and more ground. Some like things as it was before, perhaps afraid of losing a good income source, others believe the progress simply moves to slowly.

It’s no secret that Pedro Araújo has called for a broader and more flexible view when it comes to Vinho Verde, aware of the tough struggle his Quinta do Ameal faces, in order to market high quality wines from the region. As a reader here, you’re most likely aware of the fact that Vinho Verde is so much more than well-known brands produced in enourmous quantities.

Probably you’ve had some Alvarinho from the sub-regions of Monção and Melgaço close to the Spanish border, getting a first hint that it’s not all about light and slightly fizzy wines with low alcohol. But how many are aware of the existence of the Lima Valley, south of the two more famous sub-regions just mentioned?

In Lima, the high yielding grape Loureiro reigns, at least here it’s character is best expressed. Not too close to the sea, not to far away either. And here you will also find the two leading producers when it comes to putting Loureiro on the vinous map.

To understand a wine, a region or even more, the persons, you need to visit the place. Having followed the Loureiro wines of Pedro for some years now, it felt logical to put him high up on the list when checking out Vinho Verde.

First of all, what characterizes Loureiro? The name, Loureiro, can be translated to laurel and the aroma of the grape resembles that of laurel flowers. You will probably also find scents of lime or lemon, orange blossom, green apples or pears and peaches. As with Vinho Verde in general it has a refreshing nose and taste.

It’s a generous grape if you’re in to high yields and has been popular to blend with for example the Trajadura, a grape that needs a little helping hand. Nowadays Loureiro is more seen in blends together with Alvarinho, having gained a higher reputation the last decade. Compact bunches which means it’s sensitive to mildew.

Tasting a Loureiro from Pedro and comparing to other producers, clearly shows what the guy wants to tell us; that keeping down the yields by green harvesting, turning to organic viticulture, harvesting grapes that shows the perfect balance between ripe fruit and high acidity, can result in wines like his two Loureiros. My point not being that the rest of the Loureiro produced in the Vinho Verde region is rubbish, au contraire, Quinta do Ameal is just a proof that the grape has a potential that perhaps has been foreseen previously. I guess this is the viticultural revolution Pedro just wants to be more recognized, in order to raise the awareness and repute of Vinho Verde’s diversity and potential.

It’s no secret and we all know it; some wine regions or countries doesn’t have to struggle as much as others to promote their wines. If you can label your wine as Burgundy or Chianti for example, the ride will be easier. Country wise, it is of course easier to be from France or Italy. Generally speaking though; don’t put too much in it. Being from Portugal means you have to be more active and work harder to convince the market. But even here there are differences in the effort needed. Douro versus Vinho Verde for example – and even more extreme – premium Vinho Verde versus cheap well-known Vinho Verde brands.

How shall a huge region like Vinho Verde work in order to promote the diversity and all the different styles of the sub-regions? But perhaps most of all, how are they going to promote and encourage frontmen who dares, the avantgarde, so they wont give up? That’s the most tricky part; or is it?

Quinta do Ameal isn’t a threat to the idea of Vinho Verde. It isn’t cultivating Chardonnay, nor is it giving the Vinho Verde wines a bad repute. Find a way to acknowledge and fully support the innovators. Don’t look back and feel safe with what you have; use the diversity to show the region’s strength and will to constantly look forward.

No, the biggest threat to Vinho Verde is the yield. You can never reach a higher quality level as long as the yields continue being extreme. Considering there are some major players in the region, one can suspect they will protect their interests and lobby for not reducing the maximum yields allowed. Still, as long as this will continue, Vinho Verde will in most consumers views, be that light, slightly fizzy low alcohol wine it always has been. Hence the price will remain low and no one wants to pay many euros for a bottle. Generalizing I know, the problem is more complex than that, but start with yields and await the effect on the wines.

“You can have the best chef in the world, but if you don’t give him the best ingredients you never go to excellence.”

For some years now, Quinta do Ameal, has been organic and in 2009 they were certified by Ecocert. In one of my discussions with Pedro he pointed out that, although consulting one of Portugal’s greatest winemakers, there were no way for Anselmo Mendes to produce magic if he wasn’t provided with the best grape materiel (see quote). Hence, Ameal is all about attention, cutting down the yields hearty (the yield is more or less a third of the Loureiro average in the region), going organic and picking at the perfect time. Basically it is about taking control without being extreme.

Pedro currently puts his focus on Loureiro. Yes, there is an espumante (sparkling) as well made mostly on Arinto, but his main passion is Loureiro. Two dry wines, the Quinta do Ameal Loureiro and the Quinta do Ameal Escolha. He has also produced two vintages of a pretty unique wine for the region, a Special Harvest Loureiro made in the Passito style, that is dried grapes.

It’s mid-March but unusually hot even for Portugal. We’re meeting Pedro at the beautifully located Quinta do Ameal, close to the village of Ponte de Lima. The area is amazing. Big trees surrounding and the cherry is blossoming; the smell of spring. Next to the house there’s a trellis looking patio, overlooking the vineyards and mountains. There are the bottles we’re going to taste, lined up!

Doing wine visits are, at least in my case, mostly about meeting the people behind the wine, to hear their story. Furthermore checking the facilities, the vineyards and its surroundings. Tasting the wines is of course also an important feature, but in order not to get blinded or lose focus, it is important to have tasted the producer’s wines before.

Discussing the wines we taste together, a 2010 Loureiro, a 2003 and a 2009 Escolha, before having the 2010 Special Harvest, while Pedro explains more in detail how they work the vineyards pointing at the different parts, is just great for a wine nerd. Then out, in the vineyards to check the soil, have a closer look at the vines and to feel the sun. Afterwards, the facilities to get the grip of the vinification techniques used. So rewarding and essential – on a personal level – to take the next step towards understanding and perhaps enjoying the end product even more.

The 2010 Loureiro is all about wet rocks, lime peel and a restrained, very gentle floral scent. Some white peaches mixed with pears. The taste is more grapefruit and pears. The minerality and acidity are present, calling for food. So clean and with a slight herbal finish. Some wines are easy to taste without food, others demand it. This wine reminds what it’s actually all about; accompanying food. That is the relationship we should focus on, the drinking and eating part. First then, a wine’s true nature is revealed.

The two Escolha wines demonstrates the latest vintage and that Loureiro surely can be cellared – and benefit from it. 2009 and 2003. It is now the controversy begins. The best parts and grapes of Ameal’s vineyard are used for the Escolha. The wine ferments and ages in Nevers oak, which is quite a rare sight in the region’s white wines. Sure, some premium Alvarinho up in Monção and Melgaço also spend some time in oak, but they aren’t many, the wines.

Pedro has found out that just a shorter time in barrique, in this case around six months for the Escolha, blends harmoniously with the Loureiro grapes of his. Only a few thousand bottles are produced yearly of the Escolha.

The 2003 Escolha has such an amazing greenish color. A joy to just watch. The nose is complex with waxy notes, lime peel, a hint of vanilla, wet rocks and stone fruits. Again, just a floral hint. Going through the memory bank and do find similarities with Riesling. Like crossing a German with an Aussie premium version. You’d expect a tired taste? Think again! Nothing indicating it is falling apart. Herbal, waxy notes with some honey. Completely dry with balancing acidity and a delicious creamy feel. Long, refreshing finish. A real eye opener for me.

The 2009 Escolha is the exact opposite. Youthful and filled with minerals and citrus fruits. Such a fine concentration in this glass. More elegance to it. Lime, white peaches, pears and flowers backed up by this again gentle oak treatment. Lots of mineral feel in the taste. The oak still needs some time to integrate but is getting there. Acidity….you got to have a weak spot for that mouth-watering acidity just craving for food, when you drink this Loureiro. Peaches and stone fruits again. Long clean finish.

Pedro is on his way abroad and offers the bottles with us home. The three dry wines are hence tasted during three days and keeps on evolving; well perhaps not the 2003 but nonetheless it stays fresh and alive (and enjoyable). 2009 is for sure the best Escolha I have tasted so far.

Then, the true rarity, 2010 Special Harvest. What can I say? The man likes to surprise! A Passito styled dessert wine where the Loureiro grapes are allowed to dry for a couple of months before the pressing starts. Only two vintages produced; 2007 and 2010. We’re being served the latest vintage which has less alcohol than the 2007, only 9 per cent.

Just a few hundred half-bottles produced of this light amber colored 2010 Special Harvest. Big nose of dried apricots, acacia honey, summer flowers and apples. It reminds me of something but I can’t recall what. The taste is where it really hits off. Hello fabulous acidity! My taste buds are blinded and I guess wrong, when Pedro asks me about the residual sugar content. 50 grams wrong! Such a cool, thick mouth-feel and yet fresh. Apples, the ones you taste in a Strudel di Mele, dried apricots and peaches, summer honey and orange blossom. Don’t hesitate to buy this one although it will cost a few euros. Lots of work in the vineyard behind this.

Do you care what’s in your glass? Are you an aware consumer? Do you wish to support the brave? Then Quinta do Ameal is a property to follow closely. But more important; do you like great wines with personality? Then this is the stuff you want to drink. And Pedro Araújo the guy you want to support.

Want to taste the wines of Pedro? Check your country at Vinopedia. You can also ask Ameal directly, where to locate their wines. Click here.

N.B. You scrolled down to find the scores? Sorry, I’ve quit mentioning them. It kind of takes away all the magic that wine, after all, is about.

N.B.2. To promote his wines, Pedro has chosen to work together with four other producers which simply help each other in spreading the word – The Independent Winegrowers Association.

Great to have you here! Hope you like what you read. I’m also on Facebook; as me, myself and I. Love to have you there as well!

I have Douro on my mind. Vintage Port has been an essential part of my twenty years of wine passion. Not much beats a mature port [...]]]>

Great to have you here! Hope you like what you read. I’m also on Facebook; as me, myself and I. Love to have you there as well!

I have Douro on my mind. Vintage Port has been an essential part of my twenty years of wine passion. Not much beats a mature port in my world. Around a decade ago I started to develop an interest in the table wines of Douro, noticing it wasn’t all about Barca Velha anymore. It’s been an interesting and educational ride, the last ten years. So much happening in Douro and I felt like I was part of an experiment, tasting a lot of differing styles.

Now, with 2007 and 2009, I can easily say I’ve never tasted any better table wines from Douro and a majority of the producers has found their style and identity. Previously I sometimes felt that the wines either were too Port like in the taste or too generous with the American oak. Not anymore. Douro table wines of 2007 and 2009 are pure world class….

For some reason I have never had the wines of António Mendes. Ok, so he has only made wine under own label since 2000, but for some reason he hasn’t been under my radar. Thanks to a friend that is taken care of, and a quartet of Quinta do Javali wines are now a part of my Douro reference.

Douro Schist!

Not a certified organic winery but working in the direction. António’s Quinta are to be found at the left bank of the river, in Douro Nagoselo – Sao João da Pesqueira. The vineyards are located between 150 and 300 meters above sea level and as always with the Cima Corgo part of Douro, lots of Schist! The annual production are around 30,000 bottles including Port wine.

A quartet of Quinta do Javali

Quinta do Javali Reserva 2009

God, I love Douro. The 2009 Reserva from Quinta do Javali has a classy structure with fine integrated oak. Never intrusive though. Dark bitter cherries, some vanilla mixed with blueberries and blackberries. Licorice and a touch of tar. Here comes that dusty summer road again. Love it. On the second day, the floral scent has decided to join. Violets.

Quite a tannic structure, but lots of fruit, suggesting you should forget about this one for a few years. Not the same elegance as the Old Vines bottle and this one is actually in more need of cellaring as well. At least for the moment. Everything’s in fine balance though. Lots of dark berries, plum skin, smoke and licorice. One and a half years in new French oak. Where is it? Fullbodied style with a long, mineral driven finish. Grapes? Mostly Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca, with a little helping hand from Touriga Nacional and Tinto Cão. Vines around twenty years of age.

2009 Quinta do Javali Old Vines

The premium bottling from António Mendes is a spectacular wine. From vines more than 45 years old he brings 40 per cent each of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca, 15 per cent Tinto Cão and the remaining 5 per cent being Touriga Nacional.It spends twenty months in new French oak and that is also one of my first reactions when tasting the wine; where did that oak go?

The 2009 Quinta do Javali Old Vines is nothing but an awesome wine with lots of mineral feel and cool restrained fruit. No intrusive oak. Just an impressing piece of handicraft. Tinta Roriz can produce such elegance in Douro wines and this is no exclusion. A nose filled with flowers, blackberries and dark cherries. Some tar and sweet-root as well. Toasted oak of the gentle kind. But most of all, it completely oozes of rocks; you know, the kind you sense after a summer rain. On the palate it is so elegant, almost floating, but packed with dark fruit, mineral feel, spices, oak and a tannin structure that is massive but carried by ripe fruit and balancing acidity.

No question this is Douro, the schist feel is unique, but the elegance of this kind is a bit new to me; probably something we will see more of by the many skilled winemakers in Douro. Magnificent length with a seductive refreshing feel remaining on the palate for more than a minute. Will probably age for a decade. The wine was showing at its best on the second and third day after opening.

2007 Late Bottled Vintage Port, Quinta do Javali

This is a LBV for the traditionalists! I’m one of them – at least if this one is served. Not just a wine to open and pour; this needs aeration. Perhaps easier put; cellaring. Grapes? Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinto Cão. 25 years old vines.

The 2007 displays scents of dark cherries, Victoria plums, licorice, dusty summer road, leather and a hint of violets. Opens up beautifully after a day or two. On the palate the first thing that hits me, is the wine’s tannin structure! Lots of fruit to cover it, but still, at this level I normally think tannins first at Vintage Port level. Lots of mineral feel, smoke, plum skins, dark bitter chocolate and some spiciness. Old school style LBV which is most welcome. No destemming here, only soft crushing of the grapes. Buy some and cellar for a few years. A hard to beat LBV at the price level.

10 Years Old Tawny Port, Quinta do Javali

Limited production on this one but don’t let that stop you! Superior stuff when compared to more well-known brands amongst the ten years old bottlings. For this one, António uses grapes from Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca and Tinto Cão. The vines are around twenty years of age and the yield is low,  down at 25-30 hl/ha.

Ten years in old oak barrels. Don’t want the new stuff in your tawny. Intense nose with lots of fresh walnuts, bitter almond oil, humus, pipe tobacco, figs in brandy, curry and cherries. Intense and promising. Tasting. Wow, lots of stuff going on there! What fine acidity balancing the sweetness. Licorice, tobacco, dusty summer road, walnuts and almonds. Some spicy notes as well. Intense and long finish. Starting to think I’m more of a Tawny guy than Vintage port. One of the world’s most underestimated wines! Track this one down!

Summary. Traditional wines with a modern touch. The best of two worlds. Especially the 2009 Old Vines are playing in Douro’s top league and without exaggerating, it is one of the best young Douro table wines I’ve had. Now let’s see in a few years if it also is one of the best with age…

Want to taste Quinta do Javali? So far it is not seen that often outside of Portugal but here are some importers.

NB. All four wines were provided as samples. Thanks António!

Great to have you here! Hope you like what you read. I’m also on Facebook; as myself and as two pages; Wine Virtuosity and Mad about Madeira. Love to have you there as well!

Recap? Sure, here’s my impression of Gentilini from last year, when I bumped in to them [...]]]>

Great to have you here! Hope you like what you read. I’m also on Facebook; as myself and as two pages; Wine Virtuosity and Mad about Madeira. Love to have you there as well!

Recap? Sure, here’s my impression of Gentilini from last year, when I bumped in to them for the first time:

Gentilini. That’s a name to remember. Before being introduced to their Robola and Mavrodapne, I would never have guessed that wines of this quality and great personality were produced in Cephalonia. Yes, it’s been a while since I was there and much has probably changed, but still, this is really impressive stuff. The almost cool climate feel the Robola oozes of, is nothing but drop dead gorgeous. Track it down. Buy it. Love it!

Time to taste the 2011 vintage of the two Robola wines Gentilini produces. I know, not many have heard of Robola – or tasted any for that matter. But consider the following and give it a chance:

It’s all about Mount Enos and its surroundings in Cephalonia, where the Robola is cultivated. Differing micro climates in the vineyards, protection from the worst heat, limestone and chalky soil, the vicinity to water (but still protected) are all important features. Add an enthusiastic team as well; the owners Marianna Kosmetatos and Petros Markantonatos – and their winemaker Mike Jones.

The ungrafted Robola vines at Gentilini, are cultivated on higher altitudes which of course adds a cool feeling to the wines. Some of the vineyards are planted as high as 850 meters above sea level. Put old vines to that, almost sixty years for the Cellar Selection wine, and admit it; you’re curious right?

2011 Robola of Cephalonia, Gentilini

The Robola 2011 was made by chilling the grapes first. Then half of the harvest were whole bunch pressed, the other half crushed destemmed. Only the free juice was settled and fermented. Then four weeks of lees contact.

Stone fruits. Pear peel and wet rocks initially. Then unfolding and showing sun-drenched yellow fruits, lots of citrus and lime, jasmine and just a slight tropical hint. With aeration the mineral feeling takes control of the bouquet which just enhances the overall impression. On the palate it is restrained and packed with wet rocks, yellow fruits and grey pears. Some floral notes and a gentle spicy touch. Lime peel adding a refreshing nuance. Long, crisp finish.

Around 30,000 bottles of this one making it the biggest brand for Gentilini and reasonably available.

2011 Robola of Cephalonia, Cellar Selection, Gentilini

From a single south-facing vineyard at 850 meters above the sea level. Vines planted back in the 1950′s. Organically run and certified. A part of this wine (20 per cent) spends some months on equal parts of American and French oak.

Oh my, oh my. This really amazes. Again. Minerals, wet earth, wool, a creamy nose with currants and box. Mint and some ripe citrus fruits. Such elegance and intensity at the same time. Initially I’m finding a Chenin blanc resemblance, then Sauvignon blanc. Guess this is what happens when you’re expanding the references, learning new (or old) grapes. On the palate it is all about class. Citrus fruits, herbs, wet rocks and a restrained fruit character reminding me of Anjou pears. Quite a mouthful but still elegant and with seductive fruit. Classy finish with impressive intensity and a long, pure wet rocks ending.

Bigger than the 2010 and in my world, even better (although it should be noted that the 2010 is a kick a-s wine). The Cellar Selection is only around 2,000 bottles a year but what a wine it is. Both wines are just hitting the market so try to pick up some Robola. And don’t forget about the 2010 either. It’s still available here.

N.B. Samples of the two 2011 bottles were provided by Gentilini. Thanks guys! Robola photos also from Gentilini.

N.B.2. Plastic cork looking like a natural one is used as closure. Bravo guys!

Want to taste Robola? US wine lovers can find it here. Europeans here.

Great to have you here! Hope you like what you read. I’m also on Facebook; as myself and as two pages; Wine Virtuosity and Mad about Madeira. Love to have you there as well!

What can I say? What can I write? There is no way I can give [...]]]>

Great to have you here! Hope you like what you read. I’m also on Facebook; as myself and as two pages; Wine Virtuosity and Mad about Madeira. Love to have you there as well!

What can I say? What can I write? There is no way I can give justice to pure perfection in words, so I’m simply settling with the fact that wine stirs up emotions, some to the extent which is almost like a vision. Yesterday, I saw the Matrix…

Although I normally find it difficult (or perhaps pointless) to talk about the best wine ever had, I now know that the 1971 Monfortino Riserva Speciale from Conterno will subscribe to that epithet for a long, long time.

For a wine geek, the 1971 Monfortino Riserva Speciale is a reference point. A reminder why we got in to this wine thing in the first place – and that after twenty years of passion, we still are far from being more than wine virtuoso apprentices. For me it is even more. Nebbiolo hasn’t been my cup for years, but when it has been on levels like this, I find few contenders. I remember the truly amazing and breath-taking 1971 Pajoré from Enrico Giovannini Moresco a few years ago. A wine defining elegance yet combining it with concentration and an ethereal feel.

The Monfortino moves me even more. Our host has decided to pour this one showing the bottle. Some wines simply deserve it and it is up to the taster to try to not focus on the label, but what’s in the glass.

Age in a wine can be a beautiful thing. For me, few wines beats a mature Nebbiolo or Burgundy Pinot Noir, aesthetically speaking. The ruby transparent color combined with the brownish rim….gorgeous. The Riserva Speciale is no exception.

The nose is to die for. Stupidity to even try to put words on the complexity. What strikes me though, is the wine’s remarkable freshness. Marigold, rose-hips and roses. Sweet-root, mint and fresh pipe tobacco. No sawdust here, just beautifully integrated botti feel. Humus, iron and just a hint of tar. There’s such an intensity and purity on the nose I’m almost afraid of tasting….

….but there’s no need to hesitate. For me, pure perfection is when the taste confirms the nose. Having sniffed this wine I just know, that if it is as good on the palate, it will rock my foundation and produce a tear or two. Add goosebumps to that.

It is as good! Perfectly ripe grapes, tar, sweet-root, the flowers, the integrated botti feel, tons of iron…then comes the fruit and the acidity, backing up a tannin structure out of this world. They’re plenty, the tannins, but so gentle and ripe that it is time for goosebumps again. Swallowing. Can’t believe it; the wine starts the saliva production. I know, for a non-nerd it sounds gross but it is a sign of fruit still left in the wine. Quite a lot actually. The finish is eternal, just keeps on going and leaves me with notes of rose-hips and fresh tobacco.

It doesn’t get much better than this. Only different. You see, even if I had some kind of vinous revelation last night and tasted perfection, it was just as much the great company, the anticipation and the mood in general that contributed. I will taste perfection again, I know that, but it will be different. That’s the beauty and diversity of wine. It never stops!

N.B. Remember; at this age – when a wine has spent nearly 40years in the bottle – there is no perfect wines, only perfect bottles. In that sense, we were extremely lucky last nigh!

Great to have you here! Hope you like what you read. I’m also on Facebook; as myself and as two pages; Wine Virtuosity and Mad about Madeira. Welcome!

Can’t claim I’m a fan of expressions such as the “Nebbiolo of Etna” or “Barolo of the south”. But then again I suppose [...]]]>

Great to have you here! Hope you like what you read. I’m also on Facebook; as myself and as two pages; Wine Virtuosity and Mad about Madeira. Welcome!

Can’t claim I’m a fan of expressions such as the “Nebbiolo of Etna” or “Barolo of the south”. But then again I suppose we compare and search for signs of recognition when something is new to us? The Etna grape Nerello Mascalese is popularly compared with Nebbiolo; you will even hear comparisons with Burgundy and Pinot Noir. When it comes to a region north of Sicily, Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata, the Nebbiolo comparison is even narrowed down to the “Barolo of the south”. By now it feels a bit outdated; Aglianico del Vulture’s a big boy now, more than ready to stand on its own feet. So, goodbye Barolo of the south, welcome Monte Vulture and Aglianico!

There are around 30,000 bottles of the 2007 Gudarrà from Bisceglia. The winemaker Maurizio Angeletti has done some pretty amazing things with the young vines (planted in 2001). This one rests in French oak, Allier and Tronçais, for a year. Then
around half a year in bottle before released.

Still dark color although with a slightly color change on the rim. Needs aeration so patience here. But don’t worry; you will be rewarded with a powerful bouquet of dark cherries, Victoria plums, sun-drenched blackcurrants, sweet licorice, pipe tobacco and lots of humus. The cool thing with Aglianico is that although the winemaking is modern and new oak is used, the end result almost feels traditional. Exactly the case here as well.

Lots of things happening on the palate. Tobacco, cherries, black pepper, olives, licorice and humus. Herbal as well. Plum skins and good acidity in general. Tannins. Did I mention those? A good portion present, but don’t be scared away. There’s both fruit and structure in general to balance. Long, tobacco and humus oriented finale.

Seriously; the 2007 Gudarrà is a lot of bang for the bucks. And you don’t have to rush it either. Will continue evolving for a few
more years. Find it here.

Great to have you here! Hope you like what you read. I’m also on Facebook; as myself and as two pages;Wine Virtuosity and Mad about Madeira. Welcome.

Normally I see no need for the Portuguese to go international, considering their vast selection of indigenous grapes. But at the same time, why not [...]]]>

Great to have you here! Hope you like what you read. I’m also on Facebook; as myself and as two pages;Wine Virtuosity and Mad about Madeira. Welcome.

Normally I see no need for the Portuguese to go international, considering their vast selection of indigenous grapes. But at the same time, why not do Syrah if the end result is great? Alentejo seems to handle the grape best in the country and as in the case of Herdade dos Grous 2008 23 Barricas, where the grape is blended with the queen Touriga Nacional, it is all about pure seduction.

Toasted oak, lots of spices, the gentle way, and dark ripe berries. Mint and humus. Strange actually, there’s roughly five grams of residual sugar in the wine and normally that’s not my cup, but this is so finely balanced by the acidity and spiciness in the wine, that it never develops in to an issue. Ripe tannins yet present. Long, mouth-watering finish.

A pretty gorgeous semi-intellectual crowd-pleaser. Drink it the next two or three years. Believe me; you don’t want to miss out on that seductive fruit feel.

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