Since Müller-Thurgau isn’t poured on a regular basis at home I haven’t given the genealogy much thought. Reading with ten years delay I’m therefore quite happy to see DNA fingerprinting determining a crossing between Riesling and Madeleine Royale (a table wine grape which ripens extremely early). Taught ya!
No, I’m not going to mock the creator, Hermann Müller. Au contraire dear reader, I want to thank him!
If you wan’t to make good wine out of a grape that ripens early and probably are popular mainly thanks to that, large yields and adaptability, how do you proceed? Cultivating it 1,000 meters above sea level; could that be a good start?
At the wine route of South Tyrol, in Alto Adige, you will find the vineyards of Tiefenbrunner. Quite a big player on the scene, mainly focusing on white, they’re still producing good quality wines filled with personality. The flagship wine, Feldmarschall, is a Müller-Thurgau! Flagship huh, how can he then call the other ones quality wines you perhaps wonder.
Grown in chalky soil at 1,000 meters above sea level I believe Tiefenbrunner has provided us with Müller-Thurgau’s raison d’être because Feldmarschall rocks! Twice I’ve been impressed and a few weeks ago it was the 2008 with its floral notes, minerals in abundance and classy acidity showing Hermann Müller perhaps desverves some cred after all.
PS. You can find the 2008 here.
PS.2. Yes, I know the art of crossing isn’t that simple…