Are you just as convinced as most experts, that global warming is mainly caused by the increasing concentrations of greenhouse gases which comes from burning fossil fuels – and felling the rainforests around the world? Then you also probably know that the warming has just started and that this will affect many wine regions. So, in a few decades you can forget about the fog in Piedmont and cold mornings in Champagne in June!
But dear winelover, don’t worry. You don’t have to lay down and die. Besides doing your part to reduce global warming you can invest in the vineyards of the future, taking advantage of the warming. Welcome to the south parts of Sweden, the new Mosel in fifty years!
It’s not a joke anymore. Wines are produced in Sweden. If they’re any good I leave for yourself to find out, but in my opinion most of the wines I’ve tasted has been surprisingly tasty – if white. Red or rosé I’m not going to comment. The vineyard that seems most promising is to be found close to Malmö and the little community of Klagshamn. Vingården i Klagshamn is run by Murat Sofrakis and Lena Jörgensen (no, we are not related). Their Interkardinal Solaris 2010 is by far the best Swedish wine I’ve tasted. Produced together with the winemaker Göran Tufvesson at Åhus Vingård, also in the south of Sweden.
So, never heard of Solaris? Don’t worry, no Swedes hasn’t either. As with most grapes planted at these latitudes, it is a laboratory creation. Not a pure Vitis Vinifera, the parents has been fooling around with less noble Vitis relatives. A hybrid grape in other words . One of the attributes of Solaris is that it is an early ripening grape, something which is essential if you want to make wine in Sweden. It however also means that in warm summers (they do occasionally exist here) the must weight can be quite high resulting in abnormous wines with 15 per cent of alcohol. This happened in 2009 for the Interkardinal Solaris.
However, with the 2010 things are different. The aromas are a bit Sauvignon Blanc like; gooseberries, white currants, asparagus, flowers and a slight spiciness. The latter derives from the oak aging though. Yes, the wine do meet some new French oak. On the palate, white flowers, peaches, vanilla, some pears and gooseberries. Balanced with acidity in harmony. A slight bitter taste in the end is the only thing that annoys a bit.
Not exactly your every day wine, I guess. However, if there is one Swedish wine you’d like to taste I would go for this one. The only problem is: how on earth are you going to find it? The Swedish archaic way of not trusting its citizens, by only offering the wine at state monopolies, makes this one tough to find even for a Swede. It needs to be ordered ahead a few days. And you know what, you can’t buy it at the estate. Not allowed to sell it there. Monopoly. Welcome to Sweden….
The Virtuoso Says:
If you manage to buy it in Sweden, it costs 225 SEK which is equivalent with 25 euros basically. Compared with what you find in established wine regions, I’d say this is a 8-9 euros bottle.