No other producer is even close to Pereira d’Oliveira when it comes to the impressive amounts of old and rare wines they stock. How is this possible one might ask – who can keep such quantities of century old wine? The company is actually not just one but consists of five integrated producers where the oldest firm dates all the way back to 1820. The stocks simply are an inheritance from the five companies creating today’s image of Pereira d’Oliveira as guardians of the century old frasqueira’s, or vintage wines.
- Think of that, Luís says. - None of the companies incorporated in Pereira d’Oliveira’s existed 1803 – the last time we had a natural disaster of these proportions.
- People are not used to the situation, Luís continues. It’s hard not to talk about the flooding that hit Funchal and its neighbouring villages on the south coast a little more than two weeks ago. It’s a small island and many families were affected. But right now the main reason is more the current weather. It has rained intensely for almost four hours now and back then, on the 20th of February it rained unceasingly for eight hours meaning more rain those hours than what normally falls in whole of February! Nevertheless, it is not without charm we sit in the warehouse of Rua dos Ferreiros 107 and listens to the rain hitting the roof.
I’m a big fan of the Terrantez grape and if you’ve had the chance to taste an old example of the grape you understand its greatness and complexity; ergo there’s no turning back for you!
Well, after tasting a substantial amount of Verdelho’s the last weeks I finally understand what makes me so attracted by the grape. The combination of sweetness, acidity and spiciness is most captivating, but most of all – it is without doubt the one showing its grape character most of all, even with considerable time in cask. That’s spot on why I love the grape aromas which otherwise tends to be secondary in a fortified wine. Unfortunately Verdelho is also in serious decline and in great need of a rescue plan.
|1922 & 1903 Boal – Yes, they are divine!|
Elegance and power at the same time in the mouth making it a divine drink with mind bogging acidity, sweetness closing in to a Verdelho and a fruity feel that’s almost youthful! I guess it needs more than 88 years and I hope my kids will get the chance to try a glass of this in fifty years! The delineation and complex, yet elegant, flavours filling the mouth sets a new reference for me. I wasn’t aware of Boal’s ability to show such elegance. Where the grapes are picked I don’t know but the terroir presence is everywhere in the finish. Some might say I am too generous in my rating of this wine but I admit it; I love elegance and this wine sets a new standard for me when it comes finesse. Man, I love this!
One of the darkest wines I’ve ever had! Not as profound as the 1907 but more elegant on the nose with its grapey style. If the 1907 should be considered a bit non-typical for Malvazia then the 1895 was more the prototype. Floral, dates, figs, elegant with ground coffee and syrup. With an acidity, that must be loved by a dentist by the way, gives the wine a most refreshing mouth feel. Some would argue it is too high, i like it a lot. The occasion determines when to serve the 1895 or the 1907, if you’re in possession of both. Should the latter be the case then consider yourself a most wanted friend!
|Mr. Luís d’Oliveira – keeper of century old liquid gold.|
|Bolo de Mel by Rita Maria G G Marques|
P.S. Some prefer the Madeiran honey cake with a Boal but the question is if it isn’t best paired with a rich Malvazia? Many are the Bolo de Mel’s you will find on the island but the one that seems to enjoy the reputation as number one is sold exclusively at Pereira d’Oliveira. For the last 22 years Rita Maria G G Marques has supplied the producer with the honey cake and yes, it is a secret recipe. Like the wines it’s divine!
10 Years old Seco Aperitivo, 90 p
1989 Sercial Colheita, 92 p
1977 Terrantez Reserva, 93 p
1966 Verdelho Reserva, 94 p
1912 Verdelho Reserva, 97 p
1968 Boal Reserva, 93 p
1922 Boal Reserva, 97 p
1903 Boal Reserva, 98 p
1907 Malvazia Reserva, 97 p
1895 Malvazia Reserva, 95 p
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