Summer time. I am happy; you are happy, everyone’s happy! Our lives seems to be easier and the burdens during winter are far away. Not only does the season change our mood, it also affects what we eat. Lighter salad dishes yes, but also big chunks of charcoal grilled meat find it’s way to our favorite summer food list.
We tend to drink more white wine, not to mention the the rosé wines which are ripped from the shelves in the shops. We drink ice cold beer not really caring what’s in the glass – the drink’s primary task, being cold, has already been fullfilled. With the BBQ we bring out the Zin’s and an easy going Shiraz from down under. Life is, simply put, easy.
But we forget one style of wine that ought to be mandatory for its great ability to match a majority of the dishes summertime – the maceration carbonique wines! Having recently handled the excellent Lambrusco of Medici Ermete it is now time to promote the just as misunderstood wines of Beaujolais.
To a certain extent the producers have no one else to blaim than themselves. Beaujolais is for a majority synonymous with that third Thursday in November when the Beaujolais noveau’s are flooding the wine shelves all over the world. The nouveau, which should be consumed more or less immediately , is a success when it comes to marketing and inventory thinking – a quite boring product aggressively promoted and only kept for a few weeks in the producers cellar. With a price tag way over the fact what’s in the bottle as well, the Beaujolais producers can smile all the way to the bank. No hard feelings; wine producers also have bills, and passion don’t put food on the table. Still; quality Beaujolais is somewhat of a best kept secret amongst wine lovers thanks to nouveau which does a fine job degrading the region’s reputation.
Maison Louis Jadot, a négociant firm most of us have run in to before, was founded in 1859 and are today one of the most important négociants to consider when purchasing the wines of Burgundy. The number of cuvees they produce are awesome and one can’t help but be a bit impressed since the quality is there as well. Ok, it’s not top class but for a négociant business it’s hard to ask for more.
The Swedish wine importer – Vingruppen – invited me to taste a range of Louis Jadot’s to be released soon on the Swedish market; a 2002 Beaune Boucherottes (90 p), a 2005 Beaune Les Theurons (89 p), the Pommard Epenots of 2002 (91 p), 2005 (92 p), 2007 (90 p), a lovely and mature 1997 Morey-Saint-Denis (91 p), a delicate 1999 Corton-Pougets (92 p) and a grand 2001 Chambertin (93 p). All pricey wines but still, by Burgundy measures, not nearly as expensive as many others. Since I’m not in a position, financially, to choose these as my everyday wines, I was pleased to find the starting wine not bad at all!
The 2009 Beaujolais-Villages Combe-aux-Jacques is produced in industrial quantities assuring you can pick it up again. Industrial quantities you think, sounds horrible, but the négociant firm is all about attention to details which in the end result in a most enjoyable Beaujolais-Villages.
Tasting note: Youthful crimson red. The aromas of black currants, blueberries, lead pencil, foam candy and a nice floral note fills the glass. On the palate it’s light and fresh showing classic signs of the semi carbonic maceration. Flavours of cherries, lead pencil, smoke and a floral note – with a crisp, quite tannic finish. Not a memorable wine in any means but for a Village it’s delivering over expectation. Probably at its best in a year or so.
Slightly chilled at around 14 C this delicious wine and personal wine is a great match to a diversity of summer dishes; white fish, grilled chicken or just as a starter together with the salami!
Retailing at EUR 9 (89 SEK) in Sweden it’s just 2-3 euro’s higher priced than a nouveau but way over it’s league. Where do you live? Ton Overmars in the Netherlands retail it for EUR 9,95, Tesco in UK retails the 2007 which should be perfect now. For those with access to the German market consult the excellent wein.cc for shops.
(2009 Beaujolais-Villages Combe-aux-Jacques, Louis Jadot, 86 points)