Prokupac – A Serbian Wine Grape


Serbia isn’t any exception. Fine wine regions are simply close to water. In the case of Lozovik, a tiny village in Jagodina, the river system of Velika Morava is not far away. Here you will find Temet – a Serbian wine producer worth following more closely.

I must confess that Serbian quality wine hasn’t been on my radar. Probably that says more about my limitations though – and just how crazily big the wine world is today. Eastern Europe, mostly Bulgaria, got their share of purchases in my early wine passion. I was a student. The wines were cheap. And there it stopped.

But while Hungary became an essential part of my wine passion, the whites mainly though, Bulgaria, Romania and the countries once a part of the former republic of Yougoslavia disappeared from my radar. Some Slovenian wine sure, Croatian and a few nice Romanian wines as well, but the rest, a sad chapter in my book.

2011 Tri Morave, Temet

2011 Tri Morave, Temet2014. A blind wine poured. Aerated ahead. The color is beautifully transparent, yet of the darker kind, the nose offers ripe red berries, some black plums, white pepper, sweet licorice and toasted scents. A warm humus feel and a lovely bouquet of summer flowers. a dense nose which makes med think old vines. I’m feeling pretty sure it’s a Zinfandel in the glass…

Tasting. Surprising acidity. A bit more lively than the nose indicated. Ripe berries, a mix of plums, raspberries and mashed strawberries, sweet-root and a dash of vanilla. Again, surprisingly dry given the sweetness it indicates on the nose. Tannins hiding in the background. The alcohol is present yet never disturbing. Long, pure finale. Wow, this is really nice. Reset. Start over. This is not Zinfandel. Impossible. Yet it has several of the characteristics I associate with the grape.

“You will never guess what it is,” my friend says. “And it wasn’t the purpose. The grape is new to you. It’s called Prokupac.”

Never heard the name before yet it’s one of the most popular grapes on the Balkan peninsula. One of the best, I’m told, is the Tri Morave from Temet. The 2011 which we’re having, comes from an old vineyard with vines averaging 50 years. The wine has spent a year in barriques. A modern wine from a recently opened winery. There’s an international feel surrounding the Tri Morave. But it doesn’t bother me at all. The Prokupac is still allowed to lead the way. The winery of Nebojsa Aleksic surely is one to follow. More Serbian wines please!

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