I haven’t. Chosen side. Should I go for the guys who follows the phases of the moon, the biodynamics, or should I stick to the empirical track and what we know, we know? Perhaps I should mock both sides and choose a third way, going for organic wines? No, I know. I choose…..wine!
The debate is actually not only tiresome, but also forgetting what wine basically is all about. Sure, it is great that wine stirs up emotions and create feelings, but do we have to choose side for that? Do we like a wine because of the bouquet and taste – or do we like a wine due to its production methods? As Robert Parker has written in his BDX bible: “The proof is in the glass.” Maybe it is time to again remember that and evaluate a wine based on this simple yet logical criteria – and don’t put any importance in whether or not the wine is organic, biodynamic or sprayed/fertilized in absurdum. The proof is in the glass. It’s as simple as that. Right?
So, why am I telling you this? Well, easy put; Vinudilice. A stunning rosé wine produced by I Vigneri and Salvo Foti. No added yeasts, no filtration, no refrigeration. Minimal use of sulphur, if any. And yes, Salvo follows the the phases of the moon. He believes this is the way to proceed and whether or not you agree, you have to respect the choice. But even better. Forget about his methods. Just focus on the wine and try the 2010 Vinudilice Rosato from the Northern parts of Etna. The proof is in the glass.
Forget about all you thought you knew about rosé wine; the Vinudilice is an amazing experience. Probably one of the world’s highest cultivated vineyards for rosé wine! Anyone who knows of a more extreme rosé? At 1,300 meters above the sea level you will find the less than half a hectare sized vineyard, Vigna Bosco. From vines which are at least a century old, Salvo harvests Alicante, Grecanico, Minnella and some other minor native varietals for his Vinudilice. Planted in the typical bush-training style of Etna, Alberello, with 10,000 vines per hectare. Everything is done by hand – or with a little helping mule power.
Unfiltered and light in color, the wine oozes of red cherries, lingonberries, flowers and cool wet rocks. Such clean aromas and probably the closest I’ve come to call a rosé ethereal. On the palate it is delicate and light but still packed with taste. Cherries, iron, wet rocks and a slight bitter cranberry finish. Despite only 12 per cent alcohol a long lingering finale. A bit demanding perhaps, this is not an average rosé. But it calls for your attention and deserves it. On the second day it has unfolded even more and continues to call for attention. Sure, not a cheap rosé and sadly only around 100 cases made a year, but it is worth the chase and definitely a wine every person calling themself a winelover should add to their references.
By the way; “…..always remember, wine is made with grapes.” For the full story, click here.
PS. Yes, it will age for a shorter time. The Vinudilice is not like your average rosé.
PS.2. The whole range of wines from I Vigneri and Salvo Foti to be mentioned soon.
PS.3. Have you read the other 26 Sicilian posts of mine? Not? Then click here.
Photograph on vines published with the friendly permission of Salvo Foti.