I don’t force myself to be different and like wines no-one never heard of – or tasted. I just can’t help it but limited production wines seem to suck in my direction whatever I click on.
In this case it is a recently started company in Sicily that got my attention. Tenuta di Fessina. Two of their standard wines (which are everything but standard) are probably the best wines I’ve had this year – if the quality price ratio should be taken into consideration.
First out, the seducing Nerello Cappuccio called Laeneo. An oddity. There’s only 1,800 bottles made of this one and if you’re into Etna it is a must buy. Vines planted in 1970 at around 900 meters above sea level. It seems the Cappuccio is a bit more difficult to cultivate than the Mascalese and the grape was almost extinct some decades ago. As with the Mascalese the Cappuccio also has thin skin and high acidity. The tannins are not as compact in the Cappuccio though.
2009 Laeneo Nerello Cappuccio, Tenuta di Fessina, Sicily, 90-91
Pale red color. Youthful aromas almost reminiscent of a high class Beaujolais Gamay. Right from the start the wine has caught your attention. Wet rocks in abundance, red sour cherries, wild strawberries, flowers and a note of licorice and clove. Just lovely.
On the palate it has that coolness that is so delightful. Red dry berries, spices and wet rocks. Fine balancing acidity and soft mature tannins. Refreshing taste and pure finish. This speaks directly to your heart!
More on Tenuta di Fessina in the coming post.
Sample from Der Wein Weber. Retails at EUR 14,95.