It’s fascinating to follow the single vineyard wines of Tokaj. Not only is it a great way to understand vintage variation, it also shows the complexity of the region.
I’m a big fan of István Szepsy’s Úrágya. The vineyard which was planted five decades ago lies north west of the village of Mád. The neighboring sites are also classic names with Urbán to the north and Birsalmás to the south. Úrágya is perhaps not the most elegant of Szepsy’s single vineyard wines but that is compensated by a truckload of character. However, the 2011 did differ and actually showed a more refined and elegant Úrágya compared to both the 2007 and 2009. For those interested in a closer look at the vineyard site and reviews on the two other mentioned vintages, click here.
2011 Úrágya Furmint, Szepsy István, Tokaj
Light yellow color, not as intense as previous Úrágya’s has been. The wine has aged in local oak from Zemplén and already shows fine integration with just a dash of toasted scents. A cooler nose than the previous two versions, more lemon peel, white peaches and grapefruit scents. Lots of wet rocks feel as well. On the palate the acidity sings and the green apple notes are more evident. Slightly vegetative with some skin contact feel, vanilla and modeling clay. Úrágya often reaches quite high alcohol and also has some residual sugar left but in the 2011 edition the sugar is just below 3 grams and the alcohol content 13 percent. The wine still needs time, one or two years, but the more restrained expression of this now classic Szepsy site will find its followers. I’m one of them, actually preferring it slightly to 2007 and 2009. Furthermore there are almost 6,000 bottles produced in 2011.
Buy the 2011 Úrágya? Use wine-searcher to locate the wine which probably will retail around 25-30 euros. Well spent money.