Roughly a year ago I tasted the 2012 Csontos Furmint for the first time, together with Judit Bott. It was just bottled and still in its infancy. Furmint with no age shows more than one character similar to Sauvignon blanc on the nose and this one wasn’t an exception. However, all that is gone now; today Csontos is all about Furmint attributes and it’s pretty easy to understand why many holds this as the best wine from Bott Pince.
The Csontos vineyard can be found in the northern parts of the Tokaj region, close to the Zemplèn forest. The vicinity to the forest of course helps protecting the south-facing site and its almost 40 years old vines. The volcanic subsoil is mixed with a higher amount of red clay which contributes to a more powerful style of Furmint. A complete contrast for example, to the loess dominated Teleki vineyard which József and Judit holds close to the Tokaj village.
2012 Csontos Furmint
It’s easy to think of blossoming acacia trees knowing there are a few in the region. But once you’ve smelled them, you’ll never forget the scent and Csontos is all about acacia, white peaches, citrus fruits, smoky wet rocks and just a hint of vanilla. Such a seducer.
On the palate it’s all about purity and minerality, more peaches, a dash of apricots and a acacia honey feel. Although the vineyard is prone to botrytis there’s no sign of it in the 2012. The acidity masks the slight residual sugar (around six grams) and leaves you with an almost creamy long and pure finale.
Can you age the wine? Sure, if that’s a preference of yours, it surely has the potential to evolve during five or six years, perhaps longer. The Csontos Furmint is a must taste for friends of Tokaj and a great introduction to those who still needs to be convinced of the great potential of dry Tokaj wines. But most of all it’s one heck of a wine which seems impossible to keep hands away from.
Buy the wine? Sadly, not much is produced of this single vineyard wine. However there are more stuff from Bott Pince which you just need to taste. In Europe, keep an eye on the assortment at German Wein-komplott and in the US, do check out the Blue Danube Wine Company which still offers several Bott wines. Do you import/sell the wines of Bott Pince? Feel free to add a comment in the post.
For a lengthier introduction to Bott Pince, click here.