You’ll find it close to Tolcsva, in the northern parts of Tokaj. Rány, a vineyard which Attila Homonna describes as ‘eating up machines and man.’ * But I can only thank him, for the effort, harvesting such great Furmint. Not to mention the volcanic soil lesson this wine provides me with.
2012 was a very warm year in Tokaj. Already when I visited, in the end of April, the temperature was around 30 C. This of course called for actions in the vineyards, making sure there wasn’t too a high competition for the few water drops. Attila’s first vintage produced of the Rány ended up in 500 bottles from the more than 40 years old vines. With an alcohol content ending at 12.5% one can of course wonder; how did he manage, in such a warm year?
Vineyard treatment is of even greater importance in warm years. But there’s also a slight residual sugar content in the wine, just below 10 g/l. When you for the indigenous yeast this is normal; that the fermentation stops before the sugar is eaten. I can’t help but to think what Judit at Bott Pince told me last year when spontaneous fermentation was the topic;
-Nature takes no chances.
She also added that the residual sugar is to prefer for the Tokaj acidity and that they weren’t Burgundy.
– We have to find our own way, she said. Maybe the 2 grams of residual sugar belongs to Burgundy. We need to strive for balance in our wines and perhaps that small portion of sugar in our wines is needed.
To understand the 2012 Rány I’m pouring the 2011 Furmint/Hárslevelü blend as well from Attila. A more restrained wine from my favorite Tokaj year (dry wines).
2011 Furmint/Hárslevelü, Homonna Attila
Decanted 30 minutes ahead. Still a bit shy on the nose but opening up in the glass. White flowers, green sour apples, unripe peaches, a herbal touch and wet rocks. A restrained bouquet but I’m very fond of the subtleness. Should develop over the years. On the palate it’s acidity driven but yet with such fine green apples fruit. Licking rocks isn’t something I normally do but I could imagine this is how it would feel. A slight wax feeling occurs, the herbal touch is there and the finish is purity itself. Not a memorable wine but I really love its honesty. Will develop positively and strengthen its promising style.
The Virtuoso Says:
2012 Rány Furmint, Homonna Attila
Decanted 30 minutes ahead. The difference is instant. More of everything and yet not too much in any sense. Rány has concentration, the peaches are ripe, the flower scent is more evident but the wet rocks is the same fascinating lesson. Some ripe citrus fruits as well. After a while a gentle note of the oak aging shows. What strikes me the most though, is the amazing purity which is also confirmed when tasting. This is seriously good stuff. Those 9 grams of sugar you’re not giving a thought. Don’t have to says the acidity. The wet rocks, the unripe pineapples, the peaches, a dash of oak; so easy to like and yet it is filled with personality. Not as light-weighted as the 2011 blend, more structure as well. Basically put; it’s all in balance. I see a great future for Rány and Homonna Attila.
The Virtuoso Says:
To locate the wines of Homonna Attila, use wine-searcher. There’s also a Határi (single vineyard) from from Attilla. Worth seeking out.
* Quote from Bortársaság.
Read about Judit and Bott Pince here.