2013 Exczellencziás – A Search For Dry Tokaj Greatness

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Bilingual post.

Yes, it did strike me when I tasted the 2013 Exczellencziás from Bott Pince; what’s the point writing about a wine with a total production of 546 bottles? Few will be able to locate it and I will only look like a show off. But then again, the Exczellencziás is such an interesting experiment by Judit and József Bodó at Bott Pince, their search for the ”big dry Tokaj” as Judit puts it. And it would be a pity not to tell you about it because when the couple finds the formula, the production will most likely go up.

The 2013 Exczellencziás will be released in Hungary later this month. The lot will be sold domestically and I’m guessing it won’t last long on the retailers shelves in Budapest. After all, this is somewhat of a collector’s item already, even if the wine only has been produced in 2005, 2007, 2012 and now in 2013. Being honored having quite a few readers from Hungary, I think that calls for my first ever posting in magyar. This one is all for you. Thanks for reading a Swede’s take on Tokaj:

A 2013-as Exczellencziás citromsárga, zöldes peremmel – már a látványa is gyönyörű. Az első szippantás komoly borról árulkodik: karaktere hűvös, illatában nedves kövek, sárga gyümölcsök, csonthéjasok, virágok és az integrált hordó finom fűszeressége. A fiatal borok kirobbanó bőkezűsége árad belőle, és ezen a ponton a hárslevelű jelenik meg benne hangsúlyosabban.

Ízében már nyilvánvalóbb a fa jelenléte. Trópusi gyümölcsöket, ananászt és főként kókuszt találunk benne, illetve kevés fehér húsú őszibarackot is. Egzotikus oldalát citrusos savak tartják kordában, és es az, amit szeretek benne: a megszelídített gazdagságot. Ami igazán nagyszerűvé teszi a bort az az összhatás, és az az intenzitás, ami megkülönbözteti a többi dűlős Bott tételtől. Maradékcukor érezhetően van benne, hozzávetőlegesen vagy hét gramm, de az egyensúly meg is kívánja ezt. A finis hosszú, enyhén tölgyes-fűszeres, és tiszta, virágos, barackos jegyekkel zárul. Tíz évig is érlelhető lehet, ha nem tovább. Bár tudnám, hogyan állok majd ellen ennyi ideig, a következő kortyra várva. 93 p. 

Back to English and some info on the Exczellencziás

As the dry wine scene in Tokaj must be considered quite a new one, at least top quality dry wines, the search for the ultimate expression is still ongoing. Is the best dry Tokaj a single vineyard wine, or perhaps a cuvée? Which terroir is most suited? Should it consist only of Furmint or is it a blend with Hárslevelű? How long should it stay in oak? What kind of oak? With the Exczellencziás label, Judit and József experiment their way to an answer. For example:

– In 2005 the Exczellencziás was produced from the 100 years old vines parcel in the Csontos vineyard; to find out if the age of the vines were a key factor.

– In 2007 the Exczellencziás again used Csontos fruit but now Judit and József left the wine for three years in barrel and didn’t focus on the old vines section only.

– In 2012 it was again all about Csontos and after pressing it was aged without sedimentation. The wine is still not released, now resting in bottle in the cellar. According to Judit it almost resembles an orange wine.

– In 2013 the Exczellencziás consists of one barrel of Hárslevelű from the Kulcsár vineyard and one barrel of Furmint from Csontos. Two 220 liters barrels which were blended in March 2014 and bottled in September after spending 11 months in oak.

2013 Exczellencziás

Tasting impressions of the 2013 Exczellencziás

The 2013 Exczellencziás displays a yellow color with a slightly green rim as well. Quite beautiful to watch. On the nose it instantly shows we’re talking about a pretty serious wine; a a cool character nose with wet rocks, yellow fruits, some stone fruits as well, flowers and a fine integrated oak spiciness. Still youthful and generous as only young wines can be. A bit more Hárslevelű expressions at the moment and less Furmint.

On the palate the oak is slightly more evident at the moment. Quite tropical, pineapple and coconut especially, but also some white peaches. However, the lime like acidity keeps down the tropical fruit feeling and that’s what I love about this wine; generosity in a restrained way. What makes this a great effort is of course the overall feeling but also the intensity which differs the wine from Bott’s single vineyard expressions. There’s for sure residual sugar in the wine, roughly seven grams, but it is much needed for the overall balance. Long, slightly oak spicy finish with a pure floral white peaches end. This feels like a 10 years aging wine. At least. How am I going to manage waiting a decade for the next sip?

Egészségedre!

If you want to read more about Bott Pince, click here. To locate the wines, click here.

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