In 2012, Wine Virtuosity focuses on wines from Austria, Greece, Hungary, Portugal and Sicily. If you like my posts then perhaps you’d like to check out the site’s page at Facebook as well? Links in the Follow Me tag to the right. Welcome!
It’s been a while since the last Sicilian post. Not that there are lacking materiel, au contraire. New vintage releases are being followed up on and some new exciting producers are checked out more closely. Like for example the Aitna wine from Cantine Edomé.
Owned by Ninì Cianci, a university professor and Gianclaudio Tribulato, a lawyer, Cantine Edomè is for many an unheard of producer. Edomè comes from the Sicilian dialect and translates to “this is mine.” È do mè.
Yes, this is two times Nerello, Mascalese and Cappuccio. One of my weak spots, vinously speaking. Cantine Edomè are located on the north side of Etna, where most of the top producers are to be found. More exactly, they’re in Passopisciaro. The vineyard is in the Contrade (district) of Feudo di Mezzo and as in most cases we’re talking serious topography, 700 meters above the sea level. The Feudo di Mezzo is an extinct crater and the sandy soil, the so typical Alberello method – for Etna that is, the old vines, the topography and low yields forms a big part of the characteristics found in serious Etna wine.
Edomè is a name to remember. The wine, mainly a Nerello Mascalese based one, spends a year in oak and feels like a mixture of two worlds. Tradition and modern thinking. To see how their Aitna wine develops and also differ vintage wise, I tasted the trilogy of 2006, 2007 and 2008. I noticed similarities which can be translated in to house style yes, but also quite different characters more related to the respective vintage. Promising. We all want vintage variation taste in our wines right?
Drinking perfectly now. Amongst the three vintages tasted, the 2006 is the most elegant of them all, the one that comes closest to the ethereal attribute. Quite delicious on the nose with dark cherries, smoky mineral, a slight tobacco and dried fruits feel, licorice and a dash of spices. On the palate it shows fine drinkability! Easy to like this one. Red berries, Morellos in syrup, yet a dry wine. Sweet-root, iron and tobacco. Then that oh so great acidity to balance it all, adding a freshness I simply love. Mature tannin structure and just a touch of sandal in the quite long finish. Will last longer for sure, but develop further, I don’t think.
By now, I’ve had my share of Etna 2007. A cooler year with a varying season wich was difficult to master in some cases. Still, I like 2007, a lot actually, and do believe these wines has a given share of followers. You see, they are exceptionally food friendly!
The 2007 Aitna might just be my favorite amongst the three wines. It shows such a gorgeous and captivating mineral nose with smoke and wet rocks. Plums, tobacco and violets. Dark cherries and some dried herbs. On the palate it is not as evolved as the 2006. But it sure is promising. Again, lots of minerals, plum skin, violets and dark cherries. A touch of tar and spices. Good tannins, again the sandal wood feel and balancing acidity. Long finale. Perhaps not the most elegant of Etna wines but with a high quaffability. Even better on second day.
A more of everything kind of wine. At least when compared to the other two. That is of course related to the vintage which is considered an excellent and warm one. The 2008s will ask for patience and this is no exception. Smoky mineral, cherries, plums, tar, dried roses and sandal wood. Lots of freshly picked herbs.
Now here are some tannins. More ripe fruit as well and the acidity reminds me more of the one in a sweet orange. Lovely balance though with humus, plums, tar and violets. Plenty of fruit. Some toasted oak in this one. Long ending. Give it a further year to be there. Will last for years.
None of the wines are aiming for a bigger, bolder style of wine. Aitna ain’t flirting with consumers at the wood wing, nor those who cheers for a concentrated style. Aitna is elegance, at least aiming for it, and lots of mineral character and that ethereal style of Etna which I think is something so special for the region, that it should never be hidden in too much oak or too modern wine making.
Want to try the wines of Edomè? Try finding them on wine-searcher. Or perhaps ask the producer where the Aitna can be found. Importers should seriously consider the producer if Etna is a wanted brand in the portfolio.